17th Annual New Paltz Climbing Film Festival – New Paltz, NYSUNY at New Paltz
Studley Theater (Next to Old Main) 7:30 PM: Saturday, October 10, 2015
Canada, 2014, 24 minutes Filmaker: Bryan Smith, Producer: Dave Pearson.
The unique spray of ice formations at Helmchken Falls, British Columbia, are considered the hardest ice and mixed climbing spot in the world. The 140-meter cave is a terrifying complex of giant, overhung icicles and thus has become Will Gadd’s obsession and the leading edge of modern ice climbing.
USA, 2013, 6 minutes. Director: Celin Serbo.
Pamela Shanti Pack is one of the most accomplished off-width climbers in the world (male or female). Since 2008 she has been seeking out North America’s most challenging inverted and vertical off-width climbs. This type of climbing is particularly brutal and attracts only a select group of twisted souls. In recent years Pamela’s focus has shifted to establishing first ascents in this unique style of climbing. This film follows Pamela in her quest to establish new routes in the desert climbing meca of Indian Creek in southeastern Utah while providing a glimpse into what makes Pamela tick. Shot over the course of 3 days in April of 2013, it is directed by Celin Serbo, edited by Jim Aikman, with camera work by Celin Serbo, Fred Marmsater, and Jim Aikman.
Spain, 2014, 18 minutes, Director: Jon Herranz, Producer: Gerard Peris.
Francisco Marin, also known as “Novato” (“Rookie” in Spanish), is a 61-year-old climber and the only known person in the world to climb at this level at his age. He reached his maximum sporting achievement on 24th September 2012, when he sent “Geminis”, an 8b+ (5.14a) line, and nowadays he has “Florida” as a project, an impressive 8c (5.14b) route. All of them are located in Rodellar, Spain. He has a long-term ambition to achieve 9a grade before the age of 70. Furthermore, he is the father of Edu Marin, one of the best climbers in the world. They usually climb together, creating a unique roped team that transcends the parent-child relationship.
His astonishing merits in sport combined with his special and specific point of view in life make “Novato” an example for everybody. He values effort, honor, perseverance and honesty in his life and his climbing. This video transcends the climbing world and showcases this inspiring, motivating individual who wants to share his story. It’s not about sport, it’s about life.
UK, 2014, 28 minutes, Director: Vladimir Cellier.
Six young climbers set off to Cuba to equip new climbing routes. Mickael Fuselier and Nina Caprez travel together with Enzo Oddo, Melissa Le Neve, Cedric Lachet and Sebastien Boussogne. This cheery troupe install a complete sector in the Valle de Vinales, whereas a second team choose a different way and film many musicians in different situations. The result is perfect, every detail on its place. The Cuban musicians accompany the climbers in their vertical dance.
Beyond Good and Evil
France, 2013, 11 minutes. Director: Bertrand Delapierre.
For the first ascent, in 1992, Andy Parkin and Mark twight describe it as “the nicest and hardest route of the Alps ; 14 exceptional pitches in severe mixed conditions for committed ice climbing with minimalist protection”.Right now, “Beyond good and evil” stays as one of hardest route in Alps ; beyond difficulties, history about it reflects the state of mind of high-level mountaineering: strong climbers of each generation must confront it to affirm their presence. First climbers, Andy Parkin & Mark Twight, followed by F.Damilano, F.Marsigny, Lafaille reveal the feelings it brings.
UK, 2014, 27 minutes, Director: Alastair Lee.
Julian Lines is the best climber you’ve never heard of. He is undoubtedly Britain’s most accomplished free climbing soloist with world-class free ascents to his name. This deeply personal account of archetypal anti-hero is a stunning portrait that will leave your jaw on the floor.
USA, 2014, 3 minutes, Director: Celin Serbo.
In January of 2014 Will Mayo established several of the most difficult mixed climbing routes in North America at The Fang Amphitheater near Vail, CO.With great reward comes great risk. This short film examines the concept of that risk, whether perceived or real, through excerpts of Soren Kierkegaard’s 1846 writings in Two Ages. Shot in one day with voice over by Will Mayo.